ITALY DIVIDE 2019
1225 km bikepacking from Naples to Torbole - ITALY
Route & Profile
The 1225 km long route was announced to “following fast rolling gravel roads with quite a few technical mtb trails in between”, I confirm that but also like to mention there are several hike-a-bike sections that are not fun for riders wearing hard/stiff carbon shoes.
The total elevation gain is approx. 18'000 meter wat translate to approx. 60'000 feet. The course is varied so every type of bike has more or less advantages. The gravel road before Siena is the best place for the engraving specialists, as is the long flat section between Bologna and Verona, where it is flat for almost 200 km. On the hills between Siena and Bologna I was very happy to be on mountain bike with wider tyres.
The last two mountains were mostly very good to ride except in the snow.
The moons indicate the 5 places I stopped to sleep. The last stretch was 258 km with two snowy mountains was done by cycling through the night to arrive in Torbole in the morning.
„if a “local” tells you that it won’t rain for the next 5 days, you better pack your rain gear“
Preamble & Preparation
As I had some serious navigation issues during the 2018 edition of the ITALY DIVIDE I had a score to settle and with the new starting point in Neaples instead of Rome, it all seemed like a promising adventure.
As a Christmas present, I registered for the ITALY DIVIDE 2019 and prepared myself mentally and also in terms of equipment and strategy. For the latter, I developed the Bikepacker Race Compass, which helped me to set the right priorities, which proved to be very helpful. The route passes through beautiful rural areas which are the absolute world-class. On the other hand it takes the riders through numerous historical places and cities that are simply awesome. In nice weather conditions, I would say that every bikepacker should have done it once, especially if you love Italian food as much as I doe. But please bear in minde, in bad weather, sweet haven turns into hell and short uphills can become endless with slippery mud holes. It can get really cold, so I had hail showers or snow on the last hills before Bologna and some deep snow on the last two mountains. So if a “local” tells you at the start that it won't rain for the next 5 days, you better pack up your best rain gear.
Further preparations were the usual training, which is close to none, since I only commute once or rather twice a week. Fortunately my way to work is quite far, so I was able to stay in shape over the winter. Additionally I organized a nice training tour in March from Baden to Geneva with some mates of the SWISS BIKEPACKER community.
I took a plane from Basel to Naples almost 2 days before the start, so I was able to perfectly tune in to Italy, assemble the bike in peace and get in the right mood for the adventure. I was coursing through the narrow streets of Naples, eating in small restaurants and having my hair cut over an espresso.
„Vito motivated me to ride much longer than I originally planned“
DAY 1 - 229 km - Neaples > Sermoneta
HIGHLIGHTs
Shortly after 2 p.m we started with the nicest weather Italy can offer. Jack guided us to edge of the city where we finally were unleashed.
Highlights
… of the first nearly 14h riding till I stopped for to take a first rest.
Riding in the big crowd of crazy bikepackers. The spirit of adventure – the journey into the unknown.
Riding on antic Roman trails/roads.
Chatting with Cameron Dube (the only Canadian beside me in the race).
Racing with Vito (a very ambitious Italian fellow) who motivated me to ride much longer than I originally planned and then James from London, the poor guy had prepared himself for a beautiful, rolling Gravel race not a MTB event with lots of hike a bike sections. I felt sorry, when he had to badly maltreat his brandnew, expensive carbon shoes so early in the race.
LOWLIGHTs
Some nervous / dangerous maneuvers of combatants at the beginning of the race. I saw several riders with abrasions from falls, nothing really bad but unnecessary and dangerous. As I will learn much later, my friend Markus Meier was seriously injured shortly before Caserta.
I got sprayed with a cocktail of pesticides by a farmer (from top to toe). As the spray had no bad taste, I kept riding till the next fountain, where I washed my face, arms, and legs.
LESSSONS LEARNED
Better listen to my inner voice. I should concentrate more on myself and also stop a bit earlier, but then sleep a bit less.
Impressions
„... we turned into a forest scattered with storm wood that blocked our way like a muddy, impenetrable labyrinth. “
DAY 2 - 170 km | Sermoneta > Capranica
Total 398 km
The night was short. As I slept just beside the route, I often woke up, as other riders past by. In the first small town, I stopped for a well-deserved coffee and chat with some other riders. The route to Rome was ok but was only really worth seeing before Rome as we rode on the “Via Appia Antica”. This is the old Roman Appian Way, which ran from Rome down to Brindisi.
The stretch close to Rome, the Via Appia Antica, is now part of an nature and archaeological park, the Parco Regionale dell'Appia Antica.
I rode with Stu Taylor, as I will learn later, he is riding a similar pace as me. Although we never agreed, we met again and again and finally rode together to the finish line, more about that later.
Just with the rain, we arrived at the Colosseum, a master piece of history, where we and some other riders gathered in a restaurant to refuel.
After the delicious pasta I rode with a French Rooky named Lucien into the rain, which showered us stronger sometimes weaker, I was glad for the first time to have really good rain gear with me. It got dark quite early and the muddy roads required much more energy than in dry conditions.
I was not in the mood of taking pictures when crossing this muddy, impenetrable labyrinth by night. With kind permission of Aniek Rooderkerken above a picture I found on >Aniek’s Blog
The planned target in Capranica simply didn't want to get any closer and when we already thought we had arrived, we turned into a forest scattered with storm wood that blocked our way like a muddy, impenetrable labyrinth.
Squeezing our full-packed bikes through fallen trees, cliffs and crossing rivers on narrow slippery bridges in the dark seemed never-ending. Finally we got it and climbed the stairs leading up to Capranica where we devoured a boar ragout with noodles in a much too loud but luckily heated restaurant.
I've always slept outdoors at bikepacking events, because using hostels or even hotels seems like cheating to me. But when Lucien found a room while waiting for food and offered me to sleep indoors on the floor, I was happy to accept.
HIGHLIGHT
Via Appia Antica, Colosseum & Rome
Meeting other riders (first rancontre with Stu)
Riding with Lucien
LOWLIGHT
The rain in and especially after Rome.
Crossing the “MAGIC FOREST” - this nightmare turnes into a highlight as soon as you see the end, but you only really can believe its over, when you ride on solid road again ;-)
LESSONS LEARNED
It takes some stubbornness to get through such a bikepacking, but I was happy to overcome my doggedness and not sleep outside in my wet clothes in the cold night.
Impressions
„... I was afraid Lucien would fall off the bike, but he is a very experienced and tough rider, so he managed to pull through to the end.“
DAY 3 - 246 km - Capranica, Lazio to Siena
Total 645 km
In the early morning we set off and cycled the whole day through the incredibly beautiful landscapes. While crossing the numerous pilgrims on their way to Rome one greets with "ave" and smiles briefly. These short cordial eye contact create a moment of indescribably beautiful connection I rarely had before.
When you're really tired, every stone becomes a sofa
Lucien is an strong rouleur and as it was his first bikepacking event had many things to learn. He had great difficulties with his navigation device and when he was leading he missed practically every turn-off. The longer we went together, the stronger my thoughts turned more often around him instead of me, which started to bother me. So on one hand I was worried, but on the other hand somehow relieved, when Lucien didn't hear my shouts to turn off in a descent and drove full throttle down the mountain.
After about 2 hours I took a short sandwich break and just when I was about to leave, Lucien came around the corner and obviously was relieved and pleased to see me again, so we continued our adventure together and again had a lot of fun.
When we arrived in Buonconvento, there was a big party going on on the occasion of the Gravel bike race "L'eroica". We had a pizza and met Stu again, who immediately went to Siena.
Lucien would have liked to take a room to recover from the strains of the day. But I was determined to go on to Siena, so Lucien decided to clamp himself to my rear wheel. It was already deep dark, when we left the village, thanks to the moonlight, however, contours of the dusty nice gravelroute were to be recognized, which winds in large waves toward Siena.
The ascents are never very long, but with an impressive lateral gradient. The whole stretch is covered with fine gravel, so you have to be careful not to fall in the fast descents. In order to save electricity, I usually ride on the lowest level of my front lamp, as Lucien always switched to floodlight in the descents, I then rode in my own shadow, which made the whole thing even more difficult.
About 25 kilometres before Siena we caught up with Stu and rode together into the city. Lucien was tired and completely exhausted, for a moment I was afraid he would fall off the bike, but he is a very experienced and tough rider, so he managed to pull through to the end.The search for food was difficult, as we looked a bit worn out we were even thrown out of a restaurant - ok we probably shouldn't have taken the bikes with us.
Against and a sleeping place was so laborious that we gave up at the end and at 3 o'clock in the morning simply laid out our sleeping bag in a covered anteroom of a church.
Impressions
„Daniel shouted, “whoever arrives last pays”. They sprinted off as if they hadn’t done anything all day. “
DAY 4 - 115 km | Siena > San Piero sa Sieve
Total 760 km
This tough day started with a strong Italian coffee in the first bar opening near Piazza del Compo. It was fresh, but nice weather until we stopped for lunch where we met Cliff, a guy from California I met the day before the start in Neaples. As for all of us, the last three days had obviously been hard on him and he dreamed of a cozy hotel in Florence where he wanted to get fit for the coming strains. Soon after we hit the trail again, clouds approached and before Florence it started to rain. Since I was a bit clumsy putting on my super light rain jacket, I made a big tear in the back. With a piece of plastic from a waste container I made a protection, so that the meanwhile very strong rain did not run down my back. In the consequence I lost Lucien and Stu. Near the Ponte Vecchio I met 5 soaked riders (incl. Lucien & Stu) gathering and discussing how to proceed. Finally we decided to look for a hotel room, where we all could get some rest and dry our cloth.
As the search was not successful, I decided to attack the next mountain with Stu and an Italian, later Daniel, another Swiss rider, joined. We cycled through endless mud and technically difficult terrain. It felt more like an afternoon tour with my best buddies than a 1250 km long non-stop race. After finding a cozy room to dry and an excellent restaurant to eat in, we were the happiest boys on the planet until the wake-up call at 5am reminded us that we still had a lot of work to do.
HIGHLIGHT
Good fun riding with Stu and Daniel, ... you should have seen Stu and Daniel when we cycled from the hotel to the restaurant after checking in. Daniel shouted "whoever arrives last pays". The two then sprinted off as if they hadn't done anything all day. I remained stunned, but on my face was a huge smile - what a curious, for a moment carefree and awesome time we had.
LOWLIGHT
Arriving soaking wet in Florence unable to find a place to dry cloth.
For sure the rain was an issue, on the other hand I never really felt demotivated.
LESSONS LEARNED
Super light rain jacket is good to save wight during shorter tours. For a multiday event, a more robust version makes more sense.
Due to the spontanious depart from Florence, I missed to refuel or at least buy a decent sandwich. It was not a problem, as I had enough power bars and we found a good place to eat later, but a spare sandwich or slice of pizza should be in my pocket at all times.
Impressions
„Beside my aspired “FLOW” I wrote “BE CLEVER - CONSTANTLY” “
Day 5 - 207 km | Piero sa Sieve > San Benedetto
Total 967 km
I love cycling in the early mornings. The play of the morning sun and the rising clouds of mist impressed me very much last year at the same spot. When I stopped before the first ascent of the day to take a few pictures, I couldn't stop. Daniel passed by and I was convinced that I would see him again on the ascent, so I happily continued taking pictures. I had no idea that in a few kilometres I would face a apparently unsolvable situation which cost me a lot of time and energy.
The climb was not the problem but the longer the dirt turned into a sticky mud that finally stuck to the whole wheel so that the bike weighed about 40 kg and the tires did not rotate any more. I tried to remove the dirt a few times, but after a while everything blocked again. I tried to escape the muddy path through the bushes, but got stuck in the branches and had to return discouraged.
What the hell am I doing here? I asked myself. How am I supposed to do that? The first time, serious doubts arose as to whether I could reach the goal of Torbole, which was still about 550 kilometres away. That is not possible, so I never reach the finish. I cleaned the bike again and sat down first to calm down a bit.
In order to strengthen myself mentally, I had tied a photo of my family to the handlebar. Beside my aspired "FLOW" I wrote "BE CLEVER - CONSTANTLY" with my waterproof marker. I looked at this piece of mental doping and loudly said: "there is always a solution". By saying so, the words of my dear Edina sounded in my head "You can do it - we are proud of you".
I stood up, dismantled a lashing strap and attached it through the bike frame so that I could shoulder the bike. I knew that I couldn't drag my bike for miles, but I had to try. The thought that Stu and Daniel also came through here and they didn't react to my calls and whistles made me feel confident. And lo and behold, after about 1.5 kilometers the mud became more earthy and did not stick to the wheel immediately. I could push again and later even ride. Never before have I looked forward to puddles so much, which I always began to ride through at the deepest point for cleaning purposes.
With the rain starting later and a shower of sleet further up it became colder, but at least the bike worked again and the morale graudually returned. Looking back, the mountains before Bologna were the most difficult moment of my adventure and I went mentally strengthened into the long descent towards the city.
While warming up in front of a warm plate of Gnoggi I heard a bike approaching - Stu again. As we both knew we will meet again sooner or later, he kept on going.
After a refill of water I attacked the long flat stretch towards Montova. Beside some nice gravel roads the route mostly follows the huge dams along the Po river.
As I passed a still open Sports Bar around 11 pm I stopped for an awful sandwich. Shortly later crashed down in the traditional forecourt of Giulio Romano's abbey church at Polirone. By the was, the same place I slept in last years edition.
HIGHLIGHT
Morning mood and landscape.
Finally arriving in Bologna.
By looking at some pictures, I still can not believe I rode over 200 km that day :-)
LOWLIGHT
Mud, mud, mud, …
Rain, hail, snow, rain, …
Terrible sandwich that I probably shouldn't have eaten as I will learn the next day.
LESSONS LEARNED
Never give up, there is always a solution. If required, stop for a minute, reflect, make a plan and then go for it.
Impressions
„In addition to my already bad stomach and flat tire, I was afraid of getting a serious mental problem by starting to hallucinate“
Day 6 - 258 km | San Benedetto Po > Torbole
Total 1225 km
As I woke up, I had a bad belly and no air in the back tire, a good day usually starts differently.
I drove to the village fountain freshened up and when I just tried to pump my tire, a bikepacker passed by. Hi hello, all right? He shouted what I answered with No, I need a pump. He waved and drove on. At first I was pissed off, but I was aware that we were all a bit overtired in the meantime and you can only hear what you already think you know.
After 10 minutes I managed to pump the tire at least to a pampiges but drivable level and so I went off, hoping to find somewhere in the middle of the Po plain a beautiful stand pump - the words of Martullo Blocher "you are a dreamer" echo through my head.
Believe it or not, after about 30 minutes, when I suddenly saw a perfect floor pump standing in front of a house. In addition to my already bad stomach and flat tire, I was afraid of getting a serious mental problem by starting to hallucinate. I stopped, pinched my nose and as that hurt, I ran to the house and started pumping - madness it got really bulging and hard - one problem less.
A moment later a car stopped and exactly the same guy with the same cap and the same blue sweater as exactly one year ago told me that he was about to start the coffee machine and would like to make me a breakfast. It's the manager of the Ostello Concari. Last year I had already passed the Ostello and didn't want to turn back, this time I gladly accepted the invitation, although my stomach didn't want to eat at all.
After two coffees and an omelette we said goodbye cordially. It is so nice to meet such helpful folks. If you pass the Ostello Concari, make a stop or spend the night there.
„I prayed to God, Mother Nature and all the spirits that are floating around in the Po Valley. Please help me!“
My stomach got worse and worse, but I didn't want to stop, so I threw up twice during the ride. I felt weak and really bad. Getting so far and then having to give up because of bad food made me think. That must not be, please, please not here, not now. I am not a believing person, yet I prayed to God, Mother Nature and all the spirits that are floating around in the Po Valley. Please help me, give me back my strength, I will never mock on you again - please.
Slowly but steadily I made progress and was very surprised when I suddenly pulled up to the asshole who left me standing with a flat tire this morning. As it turned out he was Alexandros Vrezas the only Greek in the field, who by the way is super friendly, but in fact misunderstood me.
After some time I stopped for a coke at a coffee on the bank of the Po in the hope that a Coke could eliminate my sickness and give me back some strength.
The bartender immediately noticed that I was feeling bad and asked about my symptoms. Ah... there I have something for you he said and two minutes later a glass of hot water with orange peels stood in front of me. You have to drink that now and after 20 minutes you feel better.
With a hint of optimism I let myself in for the experiment and then headed slowly but steadily towards Verona. The longer I went, the better it felt and when a swift tail wind came to my aid before Verona, I began to regain my spirit.
After about 3 hours I had to recharge my batteries and got the most delicious pasta I ever ate. After I prepared myself with some power bars and a new pump for the last section, Daniel suddenly ran out of an alley. He had had to give up the race before Bologna because of technical issues. But he was in a really good mood and encouraged me to race fast, because he had found out on the live tracking that some competitors were very close to my heels.
Shortly before the first ascent I discovered the bike of Alexandros next to a restaurant and we exchanged a few words. He was a bit worried about his knee and the snow that had fallen in the mountains and the unusually low temperatures.
My plan was, like last year, to spend the night in the ascent of the penultimate mountain and then go on to the last stage in the early morning hours.
Shortly before dark I arrived at the mountain restaurant where I found shelter last year. To my consternation it was closed and I had to change my plan and keep going. Unfortunately, all the wells were tight so I ran out of water. I tried to melt water from the ever thicker snow, which was not very efficient at temperatures close to freezing.
The further I went, the colder it got, and a stormy wind came up. I knew that I was well equipped and that I would survive the night up here in an emergency. IN my exhausted state I was also aware that concentration was now the order of the day and that I could not allow myself to make any mistakes. I got lost twice briefly, which I noticed however due to missing traces in the snow and could correct. At each hut I made a short lap to look for water, but it was all locked and extinct. It was a bit scary, but I was glad that I felt tired but physically fit.
Again and again the snow became too deep and I had to push the bike for a while. So I could hardly believe it when it finally went down into the valley again. The seemingly endless descent led over 500 hairpin turns and I felt sick from the many curves.
Shortly after midnight I reached the bottom of the valley tired but relieved and just wanted some food and sleep. On the search for something to eat I met ... who probably - yes once again Stu - what a joy. With him Philippa was a funny compatriot with whom he had climbed the penultimate mountain.
After a pizza and a strong expresso we decided to tackle the last mountain together without sleep, a somewhat crazy, but also charming plan.
At the beginning it went well, but with increasing length the tiredness came back. Above all Philippa could hardly go on and Stu suggested several times to take a short break. Knowing that it would only get harder afterwards, I pushed them to continue without a break and so we managed to reach the highest point of the last mountain just at dusk.
Meanwhile it was freezing cold again and we had to take 3 breaks in the descent and shake our frigid hands and feet a little bit awake.
I never thought that I could fall asleep riding my bike, but this almost happened to me several times.
With the mornning sun it finally got warmer and in bright sunshine we reached the long-awaited finish around 07:30 o'clock.
HIGHLIGHT
To many to all mention them…
the hospitality at Ostello dei Conrari
the bartender that safed my life
best pasta ever in Verona
meeting Danniel again
riding trough the night with Stu and Philippa
arriving at the finish.
LOWLIGHT
upset stomach
aswhole not helping me with my flat tire (does not count anymore)
running out of water up on the mountain
freezing temparatures and snow
LESSONS LEARNED
Be thankfull and honor God, Mother Nature and all the spirits around
Do some crazy things you will remember when you are old.
AFTER THE RACE
This year i have allowed myself a entire day of rest after the great experience. Between lying around in the Aurora Cocktail Bar where many riders met, I regularly went to the Carpentari Bike Shop to greet finishers.
After such events I always have quite strange but positive dreams. I suspect that when I catch up on sleep deprivation and recover from physical peak performance, some processes take place that lead to funny dreams in connection with an enormous feeling of happiness. If anyone knows more about this phenomen, please drop me a line, I would be keen to learn more about it.
In one of the many bars I met someone? Yes exactly, of course Stu, Philippa and Simon. You can imagine what happens when you meet unexpectedly after the many experiences during the ITALY DIVIDE. I only say OMG - that was awesome.
Unpacking my Bike after the ITALY DIVIDE (with Audrie)
So far my personal story about what I experienced during ITALY DIVIDE 2019. If you have any question, please do not hesitate to > contact me
Regards, Mark